Domani, Hong Kong

For me, a trip to the accountant means a good excuse to eat at the restaurant downstairs from his office ~ Domani!

Domani's high sculpted ceilings and beautiful heavy doorway set the scene for Italian sophistication. The venue offers a sleek but small bar area as you enter, a formal dining room on a raised level, and a leafy terrace for outdoor meals when the weather permits. The whole venue is encased in glass, and the white flow of the timber curves give a sense of motion throughout. Usually I enjoy a pizza and a glass of wine at the bar, but this time we went for the full restaurant experience.

The waitstaff at Domani are very attentive, and you certainly feel like a VIP as you settle in to your table. The complimentary prosecco doesn't hurt either. However we surveyed the menu and quickly realised that the vegetarian options were few and far between. The host joined us at the table and asked if we had questions, so we took the opportunity to ask after the vegetables. He is blonde and charming and very Italian, and it seemed he could not help but express a grimace at our question: "Oh I'm afraid that halves our menu!". I thought: "only halves the menu?!" We could tell we were limiting the list of which he was very proud (sorry!) but he graciously proceeded to help us by listing all of the beautiful fish dishes on offer. . . without meat in them of course.

In the end, we had two delicious courses, however in summary it seemed like two dishes of very beautiful mozzarella and tomatoes in various forms. The creamy cheeses were delicate and sumptuous, and juxtaposed the tomatoes nicely. However it's fair to say I'd had enough of both themes by the end of the meal.  

Desert, as it often is, was the standout of the evening. Mixed fruits and sorbets in a cage of toffee. It was inventive and sumptuous, and we enjoyed each last bight.

Overall, Domani is a wonderful experience for the senses, and an accessible fine dining establishment. The waiters were friendly and brought several additional offerings to make our evening flow effortlessly. The setting is modern and unique, and the menu is fresh. Unfortunately the vegetarian menu is very limited for dinner, which is unusual for an Italian restaurant. We will happily go to Domani again, but bar pizza it is for me next time! 

Address: Level 4, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, Hong Kong
PHONE: +852 2111-1197    
Web:http://www.domani.hk/#/venue/

Mr. Willis, Shanghai, China

Whenever people ask me: 'do you miss Shanghai?' I can honestly respond that I miss the food! Perhaps because it's familiar. Perhaps because it's inventive. Perhaps because there are so many Australian chefs and restauranteurs in Shanghai so I'm inclined towards their style. Whatever it is, I always enjoy the options Shanghai has to offer.

I should be honest here though - it's the 'western' restaurants I miss. I can quite happily eat hot pot or a shared meal at a lazy susan, and Chinese food does offer an incredible variety of vegetables! But there's something in my genes that inclines me towards European / North American / Antipodean fare. . . Shanghai does those genres so surprisingly well.  I keep my eye on SmartShanghai.com for ideas - there's always something new popping up!

I was back in Shanghai for work last week, and took the chance to catch up with some good friends. When I first moved to Shanghai there was the odd Wagas here and there, offering reliable breakfast, lunch and dinner to the expat community (on the occasions that they weren't eating at Element Fresh!). Both places are still just so reliable, reasonable, and available - no matter where you are in the city, you're probably either within walking distance or 20 minutes delivery of a fruit smoothy and a hummus dip, wrap or pasta. Don't cast nasturtiums about missing the 'china experience', eating at noodle joints and street stalls every day - sometimes you just need a sandwich! Enter: Wagas Group.

Following the great success of the Wagas cafes, the group branched out into the indispensable Baker & Spice bakeries (Oh how I miss the fruit rolls! When are they coming to Hong Kong!?!) before taking themselves another step into Anfu Lu with La Strada (pizza!) Mi Thai and Mr Willis. They must be 2+ years old now, and still looking good. It was to Mr Willis that my friends and I headed for our reunion. 

Mr Willis is at the top of a beautiful wooden staircase. As you step in, you're greeted by a huge vase of lilies and the dim hull of the dining room. The beams overhead give the room a wide line, which is softened by the wood tones, leather booths, and open kitchen. We took a table for four in the center of the room and ordered our drinks. It had been a hot day in Shanghai, and it didn't take long for us all to start sweltering in our seats. The light above our table seemed like a spotlight, and we all felt the heat radiating. No Hong Kong style refrigerator air con here!

We started with a salad and a cheese souffle with walnuts. The souffle was eggy, rich and creamy - the flavour was delicious, but I was glad we were sharing it amongst the four of us. For the next course I ordered artichoke and chickpea risotto, while my friends all had fish. When my risotto arrived in it's clay pot and the lid came off, the first thing I thought was 'it needs some colour, and it's watery'. When I write that sentence in front of me, I realise I sound like spoiled brat, but I suppose we have first instincts for a reason. I tucked in, and found it was enjoyable, with the most flavour coming from the artichokes, but in general it was pretty bland. Perhaps some sun dried tomatoes or a flavoursome mushroom? I went to reach for the salt but had second thoughts. I don't salt my food! So I finished half of my risotto (it's a big portion - good for sharing?) and happily enjoyed the rest of my evening with good friends.

I learned on this night that I really do have more capacity for food than most - I was game for dessert but my friends were full, so I can't comment on the sweets! Next time.

The service was good - simple and smooth for a mid-range restaurant. We were well-watered and the meals came at a good pace. Overall I can't complain about Mr Willis although the veggie options are few and limited on taste. Shanghai still holds my heart when it comes to food, and this place is nice, but the quest continues on my next trip back!

Address:3/F, 195 Anfu Lu, Shanghai / 安福路195号3楼

Phone: 5404-0200

Web: http://www.mrwillis.com.cn/  

Aqua, Hong Kong

Date night - my favourite night!

I don't often leave Hong Kong Island. It's a sorry confession, as I'm well aware of the rich pleasures I must be missing out on the northern side of the harbour, but I rarely feel the need to make the crossing. So when Mr. Lamb decided we were heading to TST for date night, I welcomed the ferry ride and got ready to watch the infamous Hong Kong laser show for the first time (can you believe it?!).

Aqua (roma, tokyo & spirit) are at the top of a modern building, just a stones throw from the ferry dock. We took the escalator up and immediately stepped out into the dim decor of the reception - left to roma and tokyo - the two split personalities of the restaurant, and right, up the stairs to the mezzanine bar. We headed to the bar first, enjoying a couple of creative aperitifs and taking in the dusk vista before descending for our meal.

 

Aqua has floor to ceiling glass, and is looking back across Victoria Harbour to the business district of the Island, and the various peaks extending up behind Central. It's an impressive sight, and several diners had their cameras out, snapping away from various vantage points. The flashes seemed to reach a crescendo once the lasers got going at 8pm, and everyone took an intermission from their meals to watch the sky zapping with green bolts of light. What a unique show for a city to put on daily - I don't know any other city that aims to please and entertain it's inhabitants for free and on this scale - yay for the lights of Hong Kong! Although now I've seen it once, I'm happily spent on lasers - done.

Turning our attention to the menu, you can choose from either the Japanese or Italian offerings at Aqua. We went with Italian this time . . . I can see a theme happening here in my blog - Italian does Vegetarian well! Not to self: branch out.

The scene and setting blew me away at Aqua, but unfortunately the veggie food was mediocre. The ravioli was very nice, but small and non-descriptive. Mr Lamb had a pizza like any other, and we found ourselves sharing a bowl of baked potatoes as well. There is basically no imagination put into the vegetable dishes on the Italian side of the menu here - perhaps the Japanese side has more on offer?

I can see the modern atmosphere and the million dollar view are an attraction for any traveler to Hong Kong, or indeed for a couple on a date like us! The dim lighting, modern tableware, and beautiful cocktail list make for an impressive package. Unfortunately the food lets it down. It seems Aqua might take a leaf from it's sister restaurant's menu - Tivo has several nice dishes that would work in this setting well.

Thanks for the date Mr. Lamb - always nice to share a meal and a smile with you. Whether it's good, bad, or worse than bad - it's my favourite thing to do. 

Address: 29 & 30 Floors, One Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
Phone: +852 3427 2288
Website:
http://www.aqua.com.hk/#/eng/global and http://www.aqua.com.hk/#/eng/global/hongKong/aqua/concept

Lupa, Hong Kong

Lupa - that's with half an 'A' to you.

Lupa was the she-wolf caretaker of Remus and Romulus, the twin sons of Mars and Rhea Silvia who were thrown into the River Tiber at the command of their great-uncle Amulius. Lupa saved, nurtured and raised them as her own young. Having grown strong under her guidance, the twins would go on to destroy Amulius and establish the city of Rome. The image of the twins suckling at Lupa's teat is commonly represented in statues and paintings all around Italy, and she is the fitting patron of Hong Kong's newest Italian venture.

Lupa is the latest establishment for the Dining Concepts group who operate several brands around Hong Kong. The night we visited saw a down pore of rain, and we called Lupa several times to confirm our seating on the patio. It was on, then it was off, then it was on again - they had hoisted an awning above the outdoor terrace, so we confirmed our seats and braced the rain.

Upon arriving at the restaurant reception at the top of the escalator, above GAP, I gave the waitress my friends booking name and said we had a table on the terrace. She said "oh, it's that way" and gestured to her left. OK thanks, I'll seat myself! It's evident from the get-go that the outdoor eating is the poor cousin to the indoor dining!

I quickly found my friend and surveyed the surroundings - the outdoor area has a Tuscan feel mixed with a modern edge - vines growing, an eye shaped central bar, comfy looking lounges and rattan bar stools at high tables. The pouring rain was causing havoc on the canopy, and the managers were regularly poking the material to release big pockets of water over the side. I have no idea where all that water was going, as the floors didn't seem to have drainage - I'm sure they have that covered otherwise the Gap will know about it tomorrow! Anyway, water was snapping at out ankles but we were happy.

We ordered drinks and were promptly presented with the bill. We requested to pay later, as we were planning to eat - the waiter looked perplexed by this request? But he relented and the bill remained at bay.


The veggie options on the menu are few - mostly standard Italian options. Our food was ordered and arrived promptly, and we were again presented with our bill. "Umm. . . do you mind if we eat first? We're planning to stay". Again - our request was clearly a strange one, but was obliged.

Once we actually tucked in, the long and the short of it was that the food was. . . pretty average. Our salad had pre-grated packet cheese, and the pizzas weren't of any particular flavour to mention. What more can I say? It was fine, but I wont comment any further than that, as it really wasn't demonstrating any effort or quality of ingredients.

The saving grace was desert - very nice! An apricot tart that we nearly passed over - glad we didn't! To accompany the tart, my friend had a sticky wine and I had an Ameretto. Upon receiving them - surprise, surprise! There was our bill again! We were getting the hint and at the third attempt they got us to pay, despite the fact that we were mid-desert and had full drinks in hand. Due to the rain they didn't exactly have a line up of patrons waiting for our seat. What's the rush Lupa? I never really settled in because I felt they were handing me my hat each time I took a sideways look at the menu. Perplexing for sure.

Upon visiting the ladies, I could see that the main dining room where the big kids eat does look special, and I will come back to give it a try, however the service and quality of food on the terrace have certainly been enough to make me question if it's worth it. I'm actually feeling generally despondent with the quality of eateries in Hong Kong lately - it seems the HK restauranteurs are having to pay so much in rent, and spend a fortune on design and marketing to attract patrons, compete for the once-reputed top notch but now gloriously-average Fillipino waiter, and then charge a fortune (I'm assuming to cut even on the rent?) that the food quality, variety, creativity, and general yumness is left severely lacking. There is almost nowhere in Hong Kong where I could happily go once a week and feel satisfied (in comparison to the Lupa patio, Linguini Fini is my strong preference - close by, better quality food, and service far more professional). Seeing as Dining Concepts runs such a large gaggle of brands in HK, it seems they are somewhat responsible for this vacuum of dining blahness - all Queen Mary fronts but once you actually sit down to eat and look past the decor and branding, it's very much a plain Jane. Oumph!

For all the troubles of Shanghai - the spitting, lack of hygiene, sky-high nationalistic egos, MSG and melamine-formaldehyde resin, terrible drivers and lack of seat belts, abominable delicacies based on dares and torture, cocky expats who couldn't cut it anywhere but China anymore. . .  I can go on and on. . . but not for all of that, Shanghai actually has far superior eating options to Hong Kong.

Come on Lupa! Come on HK! Poor effort! We need more categories, more variety, more pride in what you do from front of house to back of house. I hope my Canto White Knight is out there somewhere.

Address: 3/F, LHT Tower, 31 Queen's Road, Central, Hong Kong, Hong Kong

Phone: 852 2796 6500

Website: http://www.diningconcepts.com.hk/lupa/index.php  

Zuma, Hong Kong

Zuma is an institution in Hong Kong, known for banker lunches and ladies weekend brunches. It also happens to be fantastic for vegetarian. No better place to take out-of-towners!

After enjoying a drink in the upstairs bar, we navigated the spiral staircase and then ducked and weaved through the heaving dining room, before: 'watch your step' and then we were out on to the covered open air terrace for dinner. Zuma has modern feel, with high ceilings, clean lines of stainless steel and glass across the three open kitchens, and rustic ceramic tableware accompanied by wooden disposable chopsticks. The atmosphere is boisterous yet polished and relaxed simultaneously.

We left the ordering in the hands of the executive sous-chef, and were soon receiving plate after plate of delicious char-grilled vegetables on skewers, tempura, rice rolls, and house-made traditional tofu. Each dish seemed to arrive with it's own sauce, and offered a smorgasbord of unique flavours and textures - salts and sweets, crunches and melts. 

My favourite was the three tofu skewers, each with a thick layer of marinade on top - one citrus, one basil, and one miso - the flavours were round and thick and naturally accentuated the essence of each ingredient. They stuck to the top of my mouth like creamy peanut butter, and I couldn't help humming and yumming while I ate them.

The char-grilled vegetables were smokey but moist, and the tempura was light and vibrant, melting in your mouth. The mushrooms with lime are the only mushrooms that my non-mushroom-eating husband will dig in to - they're firm and the lime provides a sharp contrast on the palate.

We finished off with a medley of deserts - seasonal fruits including the delicious Chinese yangmei berries (杨梅) nestled on a bed of ice. The desert has height, and is peppered with western style cakes and pudding servings. Perfect for sharing, and everything is edible! Desert certainly has wow factor at Zuma.

The service was a little slow on the night we were at Zuma, however we quite happily enjoyed complimentary champagne and our own company. The night was balmy and we were enjoying catching up with visiting family in between plates and sips. The service was smooth and polite, and everyone around us was having a great night. For a reliable Hong Kong staple, Zuma is an easy veggie favourite too! Our guests, who had heard about Zuma in advance, were suitably impressed!

Address: Level 5 and 6, The Landmark, 15 Queen's Rd, Hong Kong
Phone: +852 3657 6388
Web: http://www.zumarestaurant.com/zuma_hk.html

The China Club, Hong Kong

I'm starting to think that when it comes to vegetarian, Chinese is Chinese is Chinese.

I went to the China Club in HK for a work event this week and we were lucky to have a private room thanks to my Senior Client Partner and his modest little membership card. Upon climbing the stairs to our private lime green dining room, my boss brazenly decided to take me on a tour of the club, showing me the library and the outdoor rooftop bar overlooking the park and harbour. He'd been there for a wedding recently so decided to lead me into each room, closed door or not. . . We interrupted the Deacons drinks and I felt every head turn towards us as I pretended to umm and ahh at the room and nod in thanks, not-so-secretly feeling bashful about making myself at home in these charming private corridors.

I was wearing very high heels, and evidently I was spending too much time looking down at my footing on the rickety wooden floor boards for my boss' liking - "Look up at the art Alex! And walk slower! Don't you see the art?" Well yes I did - bold oil paintings, modern Chinese artists, and plenty of traditional influence with a funky flair of colour and bold, sometimes grotesque artwork. It's the art and colour and exclusiveness that people come to the China club for!

I hear that the private rooms were previously the living quarters of the Bank of China executives, seconded from Beijing and prohibited from spending time in the democratic Hong Kong outdoors. The rooms have been converted into private dining and each has a distinctive Sir Tang vibe - colour, chinoisery, and lots of art. The fittings are original and creek with character, looking ill-fitting but sturdy. The place is uneven and vibrant.

We started with champagne and then sat down for our 8 course. I was the only vegetarian, and having booked ahead, I was well taken care of with my own menu!

I had a procession of tofu, rice, soup, mushrooms, deep fried things, some asparagus and more varieties of mushrooms. Now I feel terrible - each was very nice and I appreciated the special effort put in by the chefs for me - but fried rice is fried rice. It leaves me wondering - unless you're eating meat, are you able to see the variety of quality and really differentiate Chinese from Chinese?

The experience was great - mostly due to the novelty of the club and the impactful decor. I'm sorry to say that the food was very pleasant in a standard kind of way. Can anyone tell me how to assess Chinese food?

My overall feeling is that the China club is worth it for wow factor - novelty and a king of faux-snooty members-only access, and definitely go when you feel like Chinese, but don't expect the culinary sensation of a lifetime - just a great, fun evening! (Disclaimer: fun evening conditional upon the company you keep)

Address: 13-15/F Old Bank of China Building, Bank Street, Central, Hong Kong
Phone: 2521-8888.

Amber, Hong Kong, Hong Kong

Wow, it's taken me a really long time to write this entry.

Truth be told, I got a bit sick of eating. That's not to detract from the amazing evening we had at Amber - actually it's the most opulent (read: expensive) meal I've ever had, and completely deserves it's spot amongst the best 100 restaurants in the world, and it's two sparklers. . . but after the 30th birthday of a lifetime (or the one and only of my lifetime if you want to be witty) I just couldn't do it anymore. . . for a while. . .  'food' being 'it'.

Now I'm getting back in the saddle, and the recollection of Amber is something very special.

I booked Amber because I was so surprised and pleased to find a vegetarian menu published online, alongside their regular menu. No questions necessary. I called to book, being careful to confirm the exact wording of the chocolate birthday greetings I wanted to reserve (Dear Myself!) and then looked forward to it for a week or so (in the meanwhile, eating A LOT of other birthday food and buying a new birthday top for the occasion).  

Arriving at Amber is like walking into a secret space. It's dimly lit, aptly decorated in Amber tones and rich woods, and was delicately adorned with yellow orchards while we were there. The space is welcoming yet private and the waitstaff glide around effortlessly like dancers on ice.

We ordered champagne to start, and were immediately romanced by the Somalier, who my Husband told me has quite a reputation preceding him. He was discreet yet obviously excited about his trade, and his love for his stock was contagious - almost a shame to take those bottles from his collection! Before the night was over we took his recommendation more than once - my first ever Austrian Pinot was one happy result!. 

We started our eating adventure with a procession of palate cleansers and lolly-pops that were fun and tasty, and in between each morsel we were offered as much homemade bread as we liked. I have a feeling the bread basket would have been bottomless, but I put an end to it in anticipation of other flavours to come.

We each started with a variety of heirloom tomatoes and a fresh beetroot salad before moving on - I had the risotto and my Husband had the white asparagus. I didn't get the chance to try the asparagus - due to the fact that I wasn't offered any by said Husband who seemed to be enjoying them to himself, however my risotto was exceptional. It was buttery and round without being too rich or heavy, and it had fresh parsley, onions and wild mushrooms spread throughout. I've not had risotto so light like this before - it was truly something different. Likewise I didn't share any of my prized risotto, instead enjoying it all to myself, which is a statement in my family.

Following dinner we saw some more complementary mouthfuls sent our way from the kitchen to cleanse our tasting senses, and then we moved on. . . cheese and desert!

Cheese was a real event. The waiter wheeled a black lacquered cabinet over to our table, and then before we knew what was happening - whack, whack, whack! - he unfolded the top of the cabinet in such a way that let us know he meant business. He then went on to explain each of the cheeses available... when I asked 'How many can I choose?' he said 'As many as you like. And don't worry... I'll be generous'. His remark was so charming, genuine and cheeky - such a lovely gesture, despite the fact that I hardly needed generous portions of food by that point! He was pleased to see we didn't go past the Stilton. The black cheese cabinet was packed up and moved back into the shadows with such stealth that I'm left imagining how it actually was removed - I was too busy ogling my cheese family to notice.

For desert we had some lovely things. Honestly I don't remember this part. I do remember I was feeling euphoric, and we were drinking sticky wine by that point. Oh, and also I was wishing myself a heart-felt happy birthday again, knowing that it was getting to the end of the day and soon it wouldn't be my Birthday anymore. Amber is of course the kind of place where the waiters won't pull out their private instruments from the back staff room and sing you an impromptu happy birthday song, and the other patrons won't clap the beat and then call out 'Hooray!' when your Mum says 'Hip Hip!'. No - they're busy speaking French, talking Finance, or celebrating wedding anniversaries. But despite the lack of singing, with Husband and Mum and Dad around me providing plenty of grown-up Birthdays Cheers, I was feeling happy, if not admittedly a bit Birthday weary. Being 30 now I seem to fade quickly. Perhaps it was the fact that we were on to our 4th bottle - I should stop thinking like an old person. 

We left feeling wonderful. Mum was kissing unborn babies and I was ready to happily fall into bed. The service had been exceptional - to the point where beyond the cheese and the fantastic wine man, there is nothing to mention because it was all so smooth and below the radar, but with quirks of appropriate personality shining through. The plates are their own with an interesting off-center pattern, and the booth we were offered felt so private while still being connected to the other experiences of the restaurant around us. It was a magic place to celebrate getting old (older).

Sometimes I don't really know what a review will say until it's been said on the page. I wish I had more to say about the food - what more can I say but that it is vegetarian and so wonderful. The vegetarian menu changes monthly, so no doubt you can have your own experience and not need to compare notes with mine. Am I too easily pleased? Is it a bad thing that I enjoy every special place I eat my vegetables in? Well I don't think so - I hope not! What a pleasure to have these treats in life. Of course there are more important things, and perhaps it's reckless to spend this money on food, but I enjoy the frivolity and spectacle of the eating experience - we all need to eat and I happen to choose to eat vegetables exclusively. I'm so glad places like Amber have the doors open to me! You might say: "Why shouldn't they!" and yes, well I agree, but also I'm just blessed to enjoy these special meals with special people, so we'll leave the philosophical debate about vegetarian dining equality for another day.

Address: 15 Queen's Road, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, The Landmark, Central, Hong Kong  
Phone: +852 2132 0066
Web:  http://www.amberhongkong.com/