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Sunday 17 June 2012

Lupa, Hong Kong

Lupa - that's with half an 'A' to you.

Lupa was the she-wolf caretaker of Remus and Romulus, the twin sons of Mars and Rhea Silvia who were thrown into the River Tiber at the command of their great-uncle Amulius. Lupa saved, nurtured and raised them as her own young. Having grown strong under her guidance, the twins would go on to destroy Amulius and establish the city of Rome. The image of the twins suckling at Lupa's teat is commonly represented in statues and paintings all around Italy, and she is the fitting patron of Hong Kong's newest Italian venture.


Lupa is the latest establishment for the Dining Concepts group who operate several brands around Hong Kong. The night we visited saw a down pore of rain, and we called Lupa several times to confirm our seating on the patio. It was on, then it was off, then it was on again - they had hoisted an awning above the outdoor terrace, so we confirmed our seats and braced the rain.

Upon arriving at the restaurant reception at the top of the escalator, above GAP, I gave the waitress my friends booking name and said we had a table on the terrace. She said "oh, it's that way" and gestured to her left. OK thanks, I'll seat myself! It's evident from the get-go that the outdoor eating is the poor cousin to the indoor dining!

I quickly found my friend and surveyed the surroundings - the outdoor area has a Tuscan feel mixed with a modern edge - vines growing, an eye shaped central bar, comfy looking lounges and rattan bar stools at high tables. The pouring rain was causing havoc on the canopy, and the managers were regularly poking the material to release big pockets of water over the side. I have no idea where all that water was going, as the floors didn't seem to have drainage - I'm sure they have that covered otherwise the Gap will know about it tomorrow! Anyway, water was snapping at out ankles but we were happy.



We ordered drinks and were promptly presented with the bill. We requested to pay later, as we were planning to eat - the waiter looked perplexed by this request? But he relented and the bill remained at bay.


The veggie options on the menu are few - mostly standard Italian options. Our food was ordered and arrived promptly, and we were again presented with our bill. "Umm. . . do you mind if we eat first? We're planning to stay". Again - our request was clearly a strange one, but was obliged.

Once we actually tucked in, the long and the short of it was that the food was. . . pretty average. Our salad had pre-grated packet cheese, and the pizzas weren't of any particular flavour to mention. What more can I say? It was fine, but I wont comment any further than that, as it really wasn't demonstrating any effort or quality of ingredients.



The saving grace was desert - very nice! An apricot tart that we nearly passed over - glad we didn't! To accompany the tart, my friend had a sticky wine and I had an Ameretto. Upon receiving them - surprise, surprise! There was our bill again! We were getting the hint and at the third attempt they got us to pay, despite the fact that we were mid-desert and had full drinks in hand. Due to the rain they didn't exactly have a line up of patrons waiting for our seat. What's the rush Lupa? I never really settled in because I felt they were handing me my hat each time I took a sideways look at the menu. Perplexing for sure.




Upon visiting the ladies, I could see that the main dining room where the big kids eat does look special, and I will come back to give it a try, however the service and quality of food on the terrace have certainly been enough to make me question if it's worth it. I'm actually feeling generally despondent with the quality of eateries in Hong Kong lately - it seems the HK restauranteurs are having to pay so much in rent, and spend a fortune on design and marketing to attract patrons, compete for the once-reputed top notch but now gloriously-average Fillipino waiter, and then charge a fortune (I'm assuming to cut even on the rent?) that the food quality, variety, creativity, and general yumness is left severely lacking. There is almost nowhere in Hong Kong where I could happily go once a week and feel satisfied (in comparison to the Lupa patio, Linguini Fini is my strong preference - close by, better quality food, and service far more professional). Seeing as Dining Concepts runs such a large gaggle of brands in HK, it seems they are somewhat responsible for this vacuum of dining blahness - all Queen Mary fronts but once you actually sit down to eat and look past the decor and branding, it's very much a plain Jane. Oumph!
For all the troubles of Shanghai - the spitting, lack of hygiene, sky-high nationalistic egos, MSG and melamine-formaldehyde resin, terrible drivers and lack of seat belts, abominable delicacies based on dares and torture, cocky expats who couldn't cut it anywhere but China anymore. . .  I can go on and on. . . but not for all of that, Shanghai actually has far superior eating options to Hong Kong.
Come on Lupa! Come on HK! Poor effort! We need more categories, more variety, more pride in what you do from front of house to back of house. I hope my Canto White Knight is out there somewhere.

Address: 3/F, LHT Tower, 31 Queen's Road, Central, Hong Kong, Hong Kong
Phone: 852 2796 6500

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