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Saturday, 4 August 2012

Mr. Willis, Shanghai, China

Whenever people ask me: 'do you miss Shanghai?' I can honestly respond that I miss the food! Perhaps because it's familiar. Perhaps because it's inventive. Perhaps because there are so many Australian chefs and restauranteurs in Shanghai so I'm inclined towards their style. Whatever it is, I always enjoy the options Shanghai has to offer.

I should be honest here though - it's the 'western' restaurants I miss. I can quite happily eat hot pot or a shared meal at a lazy susan, and Chinese food does offer an incredible variety of vegetables! But there's something in my genes that inclines me towards European / North American / Antipodean fare. . . Shanghai does those genres so surprisingly well.  I keep my eye on SmartShanghai.com for ideas - there's always something new popping up!


I was back in Shanghai for work last week, and took the chance to catch up with some good friends. When I first moved to Shanghai there was the odd Wagas here and there, offering reliable breakfast, lunch and dinner to the expat community (on the occasions that they weren't eating at Element Fresh!). Both places are still just so reliable, reasonable, and available - no matter where you are in the city, you're probably either within walking distance or 20 minutes delivery of a fruit smoothy and a hummus dip, wrap or pasta. Don't cast nasturtiums about missing the 'china experience', eating at noodle joints and street stalls every day - sometimes you just need a sandwich! Enter: Wagas Group.

Following the great success of the Wagas cafes, the group branched out into the indispensable Baker & Spice bakeries (Oh how I miss the fruit rolls! When are they coming to Hong Kong!?!) before taking themselves another step into Anfu Lu with La Strada (pizza!) Mi Thai and Mr Willis. They must be 2+ years old now, and still looking good. It was to Mr Willis that my friends and I headed for our reunion. 


Mr Willis is at the top of a beautiful wooden staircase. As you step in, you're greeted by a huge vase of lilies and the dim hull of the dining room. The beams overhead give the room a wide line, which is softened by the wood tones, leather booths, and open kitchen. We took a table for four in the center of the room and ordered our drinks. It had been a hot day in Shanghai, and it didn't take long for us all to start sweltering in our seats. The light above our table seemed like a spotlight, and we all felt the heat radiating. No Hong Kong style refrigerator air con here!

We started with a salad and a cheese souffle with walnuts. The souffle was eggy, rich and creamy - the flavour was delicious, but I was glad we were sharing it amongst the four of us. For the next course I ordered artichoke and chickpea risotto, while my friends all had fish. When my risotto arrived in it's clay pot and the lid came off, the first thing I thought was 'it needs some colour, and it's watery'. When I write that sentence in front of me, I realise I sound like spoiled brat, but I suppose we have first instincts for a reason. I tucked in, and found it was enjoyable, with the most flavour coming from the artichokes, but in general it was pretty bland. Perhaps some sun dried tomatoes or a flavoursome mushroom? I went to reach for the salt but had second thoughts. I don't salt my food! So I finished half of my risotto (it's a big portion - good for sharing?) and happily enjoyed the rest of my evening with good friends.

I learned on this night that I really do have more capacity for food than most - I was game for dessert but my friends were full, so I can't comment on the sweets! Next time.

The service was good - simple and smooth for a mid-range restaurant. We were well-watered and the meals came at a good pace. Overall I can't complain about Mr Willis although the veggie options are few and limited on taste. Shanghai still holds my heart when it comes to food, and this place is nice, but the quest continues on my next trip back!


Address:3/F, 195 Anfu Lu, Shanghai / 安福路195号3楼
Phone: 5404-0200

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