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Friday, 18 May 2012

The China Club, Hong Kong

I'm starting to think that when it comes to vegetarian, Chinese is Chinese is Chinese.

I went to the China Club in HK for a work event this week and we were lucky to have a private room thanks to my Senior Client Partner and his modest little membership card. Upon climbing the stairs to our private lime green dining room, my boss brazenly decided to take me on a tour of the club, showing me the library and the outdoor rooftop bar overlooking the park and harbour. He'd been there for a wedding recently so decided to lead me into each room, closed door or not. . . We interrupted the Deacons drinks and I felt every head turn towards us as I pretended to umm and ahh at the room and nod in thanks, not-so-secretly feeling bashful about making myself at home in these charming private corridors.

I was wearing very high heels, and evidently I was spending too much time looking down at my footing on the rickety wooden floor boards for my boss' liking - "Look up at the art Alex! And walk slower! Don't you see the art?" Well yes I did - bold oil paintings, modern Chinese artists, and plenty of traditional influence with a funky flair of colour and bold, sometimes grotesque artwork. It's the art and colour and exclusiveness that people come to the China club for!


I hear that the private rooms were previously the living quarters of the Bank of China executives, seconded from Beijing and prohibited from spending time in the democratic Hong Kong outdoors. The rooms have been converted into private dining and each has a distinctive Sir Tang vibe - colour, chinoisery, and lots of art. The fittings are original and creek with character, looking ill-fitting but sturdy. The place is uneven and vibrant.

We started with champagne and then sat down for our 8 course. I was the only vegetarian, and having booked ahead, I was well taken care of with my own menu!

I had a procession of tofu, rice, soup, mushrooms, deep fried things, some asparagus and more varieties of mushrooms. Now I feel terrible - each was very nice and I appreciated the special effort put in by the chefs for me - but fried rice is fried rice. It leaves me wondering - unless you're eating meat, are you able to see the variety of quality and really differentiate Chinese from Chinese?


The experience was great - mostly due to the novelty of the club and the impactful decor. I'm sorry to say that the food was very pleasant in a standard kind of way. Can anyone tell me how to assess Chinese food?

My overall feeling is that the China club is worth it for wow factor - novelty and a king of faux-snooty members-only access, and definitely go when you feel like Chinese, but don't expect the culinary sensation of a lifetime - just a great, fun evening! (Disclaimer: fun evening conditional upon the company you keep)



Address: 13-15/F Old Bank of China Building, Bank Street, Central, Hong Kong
Phone: 2521-8888.

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