Lupa, Hong Kong

Lupa - that's with half an 'A' to you.

Lupa was the she-wolf caretaker of Remus and Romulus, the twin sons of Mars and Rhea Silvia who were thrown into the River Tiber at the command of their great-uncle Amulius. Lupa saved, nurtured and raised them as her own young. Having grown strong under her guidance, the twins would go on to destroy Amulius and establish the city of Rome. The image of the twins suckling at Lupa's teat is commonly represented in statues and paintings all around Italy, and she is the fitting patron of Hong Kong's newest Italian venture.

Lupa is the latest establishment for the Dining Concepts group who operate several brands around Hong Kong. The night we visited saw a down pore of rain, and we called Lupa several times to confirm our seating on the patio. It was on, then it was off, then it was on again - they had hoisted an awning above the outdoor terrace, so we confirmed our seats and braced the rain.

Upon arriving at the restaurant reception at the top of the escalator, above GAP, I gave the waitress my friends booking name and said we had a table on the terrace. She said "oh, it's that way" and gestured to her left. OK thanks, I'll seat myself! It's evident from the get-go that the outdoor eating is the poor cousin to the indoor dining!

I quickly found my friend and surveyed the surroundings - the outdoor area has a Tuscan feel mixed with a modern edge - vines growing, an eye shaped central bar, comfy looking lounges and rattan bar stools at high tables. The pouring rain was causing havoc on the canopy, and the managers were regularly poking the material to release big pockets of water over the side. I have no idea where all that water was going, as the floors didn't seem to have drainage - I'm sure they have that covered otherwise the Gap will know about it tomorrow! Anyway, water was snapping at out ankles but we were happy.

We ordered drinks and were promptly presented with the bill. We requested to pay later, as we were planning to eat - the waiter looked perplexed by this request? But he relented and the bill remained at bay.


The veggie options on the menu are few - mostly standard Italian options. Our food was ordered and arrived promptly, and we were again presented with our bill. "Umm. . . do you mind if we eat first? We're planning to stay". Again - our request was clearly a strange one, but was obliged.

Once we actually tucked in, the long and the short of it was that the food was. . . pretty average. Our salad had pre-grated packet cheese, and the pizzas weren't of any particular flavour to mention. What more can I say? It was fine, but I wont comment any further than that, as it really wasn't demonstrating any effort or quality of ingredients.

The saving grace was desert - very nice! An apricot tart that we nearly passed over - glad we didn't! To accompany the tart, my friend had a sticky wine and I had an Ameretto. Upon receiving them - surprise, surprise! There was our bill again! We were getting the hint and at the third attempt they got us to pay, despite the fact that we were mid-desert and had full drinks in hand. Due to the rain they didn't exactly have a line up of patrons waiting for our seat. What's the rush Lupa? I never really settled in because I felt they were handing me my hat each time I took a sideways look at the menu. Perplexing for sure.

Upon visiting the ladies, I could see that the main dining room where the big kids eat does look special, and I will come back to give it a try, however the service and quality of food on the terrace have certainly been enough to make me question if it's worth it. I'm actually feeling generally despondent with the quality of eateries in Hong Kong lately - it seems the HK restauranteurs are having to pay so much in rent, and spend a fortune on design and marketing to attract patrons, compete for the once-reputed top notch but now gloriously-average Fillipino waiter, and then charge a fortune (I'm assuming to cut even on the rent?) that the food quality, variety, creativity, and general yumness is left severely lacking. There is almost nowhere in Hong Kong where I could happily go once a week and feel satisfied (in comparison to the Lupa patio, Linguini Fini is my strong preference - close by, better quality food, and service far more professional). Seeing as Dining Concepts runs such a large gaggle of brands in HK, it seems they are somewhat responsible for this vacuum of dining blahness - all Queen Mary fronts but once you actually sit down to eat and look past the decor and branding, it's very much a plain Jane. Oumph!

For all the troubles of Shanghai - the spitting, lack of hygiene, sky-high nationalistic egos, MSG and melamine-formaldehyde resin, terrible drivers and lack of seat belts, abominable delicacies based on dares and torture, cocky expats who couldn't cut it anywhere but China anymore. . .  I can go on and on. . . but not for all of that, Shanghai actually has far superior eating options to Hong Kong.

Come on Lupa! Come on HK! Poor effort! We need more categories, more variety, more pride in what you do from front of house to back of house. I hope my Canto White Knight is out there somewhere.

Address: 3/F, LHT Tower, 31 Queen's Road, Central, Hong Kong, Hong Kong

Phone: 852 2796 6500

Website: http://www.diningconcepts.com.hk/lupa/index.php  

Zuma, Hong Kong

Zuma is an institution in Hong Kong, known for banker lunches and ladies weekend brunches. It also happens to be fantastic for vegetarian. No better place to take out-of-towners!

After enjoying a drink in the upstairs bar, we navigated the spiral staircase and then ducked and weaved through the heaving dining room, before: 'watch your step' and then we were out on to the covered open air terrace for dinner. Zuma has modern feel, with high ceilings, clean lines of stainless steel and glass across the three open kitchens, and rustic ceramic tableware accompanied by wooden disposable chopsticks. The atmosphere is boisterous yet polished and relaxed simultaneously.

We left the ordering in the hands of the executive sous-chef, and were soon receiving plate after plate of delicious char-grilled vegetables on skewers, tempura, rice rolls, and house-made traditional tofu. Each dish seemed to arrive with it's own sauce, and offered a smorgasbord of unique flavours and textures - salts and sweets, crunches and melts. 

My favourite was the three tofu skewers, each with a thick layer of marinade on top - one citrus, one basil, and one miso - the flavours were round and thick and naturally accentuated the essence of each ingredient. They stuck to the top of my mouth like creamy peanut butter, and I couldn't help humming and yumming while I ate them.

The char-grilled vegetables were smokey but moist, and the tempura was light and vibrant, melting in your mouth. The mushrooms with lime are the only mushrooms that my non-mushroom-eating husband will dig in to - they're firm and the lime provides a sharp contrast on the palate.

We finished off with a medley of deserts - seasonal fruits including the delicious Chinese yangmei berries (杨梅) nestled on a bed of ice. The desert has height, and is peppered with western style cakes and pudding servings. Perfect for sharing, and everything is edible! Desert certainly has wow factor at Zuma.

The service was a little slow on the night we were at Zuma, however we quite happily enjoyed complimentary champagne and our own company. The night was balmy and we were enjoying catching up with visiting family in between plates and sips. The service was smooth and polite, and everyone around us was having a great night. For a reliable Hong Kong staple, Zuma is an easy veggie favourite too! Our guests, who had heard about Zuma in advance, were suitably impressed!

Address: Level 5 and 6, The Landmark, 15 Queen's Rd, Hong Kong
Phone: +852 3657 6388
Web: http://www.zumarestaurant.com/zuma_hk.html

The China Club, Hong Kong

I'm starting to think that when it comes to vegetarian, Chinese is Chinese is Chinese.

I went to the China Club in HK for a work event this week and we were lucky to have a private room thanks to my Senior Client Partner and his modest little membership card. Upon climbing the stairs to our private lime green dining room, my boss brazenly decided to take me on a tour of the club, showing me the library and the outdoor rooftop bar overlooking the park and harbour. He'd been there for a wedding recently so decided to lead me into each room, closed door or not. . . We interrupted the Deacons drinks and I felt every head turn towards us as I pretended to umm and ahh at the room and nod in thanks, not-so-secretly feeling bashful about making myself at home in these charming private corridors.

I was wearing very high heels, and evidently I was spending too much time looking down at my footing on the rickety wooden floor boards for my boss' liking - "Look up at the art Alex! And walk slower! Don't you see the art?" Well yes I did - bold oil paintings, modern Chinese artists, and plenty of traditional influence with a funky flair of colour and bold, sometimes grotesque artwork. It's the art and colour and exclusiveness that people come to the China club for!

I hear that the private rooms were previously the living quarters of the Bank of China executives, seconded from Beijing and prohibited from spending time in the democratic Hong Kong outdoors. The rooms have been converted into private dining and each has a distinctive Sir Tang vibe - colour, chinoisery, and lots of art. The fittings are original and creek with character, looking ill-fitting but sturdy. The place is uneven and vibrant.

We started with champagne and then sat down for our 8 course. I was the only vegetarian, and having booked ahead, I was well taken care of with my own menu!

I had a procession of tofu, rice, soup, mushrooms, deep fried things, some asparagus and more varieties of mushrooms. Now I feel terrible - each was very nice and I appreciated the special effort put in by the chefs for me - but fried rice is fried rice. It leaves me wondering - unless you're eating meat, are you able to see the variety of quality and really differentiate Chinese from Chinese?

The experience was great - mostly due to the novelty of the club and the impactful decor. I'm sorry to say that the food was very pleasant in a standard kind of way. Can anyone tell me how to assess Chinese food?

My overall feeling is that the China club is worth it for wow factor - novelty and a king of faux-snooty members-only access, and definitely go when you feel like Chinese, but don't expect the culinary sensation of a lifetime - just a great, fun evening! (Disclaimer: fun evening conditional upon the company you keep)

Address: 13-15/F Old Bank of China Building, Bank Street, Central, Hong Kong
Phone: 2521-8888.

Amber, Hong Kong, Hong Kong

Wow, it's taken me a really long time to write this entry.

Truth be told, I got a bit sick of eating. That's not to detract from the amazing evening we had at Amber - actually it's the most opulent (read: expensive) meal I've ever had, and completely deserves it's spot amongst the best 100 restaurants in the world, and it's two sparklers. . . but after the 30th birthday of a lifetime (or the one and only of my lifetime if you want to be witty) I just couldn't do it anymore. . . for a while. . .  'food' being 'it'.

Now I'm getting back in the saddle, and the recollection of Amber is something very special.

I booked Amber because I was so surprised and pleased to find a vegetarian menu published online, alongside their regular menu. No questions necessary. I called to book, being careful to confirm the exact wording of the chocolate birthday greetings I wanted to reserve (Dear Myself!) and then looked forward to it for a week or so (in the meanwhile, eating A LOT of other birthday food and buying a new birthday top for the occasion).  

Arriving at Amber is like walking into a secret space. It's dimly lit, aptly decorated in Amber tones and rich woods, and was delicately adorned with yellow orchards while we were there. The space is welcoming yet private and the waitstaff glide around effortlessly like dancers on ice.

We ordered champagne to start, and were immediately romanced by the Somalier, who my Husband told me has quite a reputation preceding him. He was discreet yet obviously excited about his trade, and his love for his stock was contagious - almost a shame to take those bottles from his collection! Before the night was over we took his recommendation more than once - my first ever Austrian Pinot was one happy result!. 

We started our eating adventure with a procession of palate cleansers and lolly-pops that were fun and tasty, and in between each morsel we were offered as much homemade bread as we liked. I have a feeling the bread basket would have been bottomless, but I put an end to it in anticipation of other flavours to come.

We each started with a variety of heirloom tomatoes and a fresh beetroot salad before moving on - I had the risotto and my Husband had the white asparagus. I didn't get the chance to try the asparagus - due to the fact that I wasn't offered any by said Husband who seemed to be enjoying them to himself, however my risotto was exceptional. It was buttery and round without being too rich or heavy, and it had fresh parsley, onions and wild mushrooms spread throughout. I've not had risotto so light like this before - it was truly something different. Likewise I didn't share any of my prized risotto, instead enjoying it all to myself, which is a statement in my family.

Following dinner we saw some more complementary mouthfuls sent our way from the kitchen to cleanse our tasting senses, and then we moved on. . . cheese and desert!

Cheese was a real event. The waiter wheeled a black lacquered cabinet over to our table, and then before we knew what was happening - whack, whack, whack! - he unfolded the top of the cabinet in such a way that let us know he meant business. He then went on to explain each of the cheeses available... when I asked 'How many can I choose?' he said 'As many as you like. And don't worry... I'll be generous'. His remark was so charming, genuine and cheeky - such a lovely gesture, despite the fact that I hardly needed generous portions of food by that point! He was pleased to see we didn't go past the Stilton. The black cheese cabinet was packed up and moved back into the shadows with such stealth that I'm left imagining how it actually was removed - I was too busy ogling my cheese family to notice.

For desert we had some lovely things. Honestly I don't remember this part. I do remember I was feeling euphoric, and we were drinking sticky wine by that point. Oh, and also I was wishing myself a heart-felt happy birthday again, knowing that it was getting to the end of the day and soon it wouldn't be my Birthday anymore. Amber is of course the kind of place where the waiters won't pull out their private instruments from the back staff room and sing you an impromptu happy birthday song, and the other patrons won't clap the beat and then call out 'Hooray!' when your Mum says 'Hip Hip!'. No - they're busy speaking French, talking Finance, or celebrating wedding anniversaries. But despite the lack of singing, with Husband and Mum and Dad around me providing plenty of grown-up Birthdays Cheers, I was feeling happy, if not admittedly a bit Birthday weary. Being 30 now I seem to fade quickly. Perhaps it was the fact that we were on to our 4th bottle - I should stop thinking like an old person. 

We left feeling wonderful. Mum was kissing unborn babies and I was ready to happily fall into bed. The service had been exceptional - to the point where beyond the cheese and the fantastic wine man, there is nothing to mention because it was all so smooth and below the radar, but with quirks of appropriate personality shining through. The plates are their own with an interesting off-center pattern, and the booth we were offered felt so private while still being connected to the other experiences of the restaurant around us. It was a magic place to celebrate getting old (older).

Sometimes I don't really know what a review will say until it's been said on the page. I wish I had more to say about the food - what more can I say but that it is vegetarian and so wonderful. The vegetarian menu changes monthly, so no doubt you can have your own experience and not need to compare notes with mine. Am I too easily pleased? Is it a bad thing that I enjoy every special place I eat my vegetables in? Well I don't think so - I hope not! What a pleasure to have these treats in life. Of course there are more important things, and perhaps it's reckless to spend this money on food, but I enjoy the frivolity and spectacle of the eating experience - we all need to eat and I happen to choose to eat vegetables exclusively. I'm so glad places like Amber have the doors open to me! You might say: "Why shouldn't they!" and yes, well I agree, but also I'm just blessed to enjoy these special meals with special people, so we'll leave the philosophical debate about vegetarian dining equality for another day.

Address: 15 Queen's Road, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, The Landmark, Central, Hong Kong  
Phone: +852 2132 0066
Web:  http://www.amberhongkong.com/

Merveilluex, Bruges, Belgium

In Bruges we ate at least one of all the usual novelties - frites with mayonnaise, chocolate, waffles, beer. . . The chocolates were consistently incredible, but I soon tired of the rest!

We spent a lot of time trekking all around Bruges following online reviews. . . we happily viewed most of the city along the way, and got to know the coiled and cobbled streets quite well, but sadly most of our conquests turned out to be closed - some seem to be open for lunch but not for dinner, and others closed every second tuesday and wednesday and each Sunday after March. . . Our hotelier later explained that the local restaurants are run privately and that the owners 'need time to rest'! Well, at one stage I found myself in an Irish pub out of desperation ~ we had one drink and then managed to re-muster our hunting instincts in the pursuit of a good meal. Luckily we became the recipients of a a local recommendation and followed it dutifully.

Needless to say, I was glad to have lunch in this little french bistro that became our stand-out, as local suggestions are always best!

When you step in the front door of this lane-way cafe, you will basically find yourself standing in the kitchen. After maneuvering around and taking a seat by the large window overlooking potted plants on the opposite windowsill, you'll immediately feel settled and cosy, and it will dawn on you that you're in for a treat!

Pastries are on display behind the counter, waiting for you for later, and the walls are lined with teas and wines. The decor is simple and chic, with a touch of country style (even the large supply of dish-washing detergent is lined up perfectly, row by row like soldiers in the backroom, mimicking the bottles of wine - their front of house brothers).


Merveilluex is run by a couple and you can feel their personal touch both in the service and the magic of the kitchenette. They're a smooth team and everyone felt the friendly efficiency they offer.

We started with a goats cheese and apple salad which arrived as a wheel of cheese baked in butter, and covered in caramelised apples, with a green salad on the side. The cheese was salty and smooth, and the combination with the apples created an unexpectedly luxurious experience. I knew I'd be running off the butter and cheese for weeks to come, but in the moment I couldn't ask for a nicer slice of heaven. The green salad with vinaigrette refreshed my palate before we moved on to a very nice pasta. Although very tasty, the pasta sits in the background of my memory in comparison to the cheese treat!

For sweets (we couldn't resist) we had more apples in the form of a tart - very nice.

We certainly had a lovely lunch away from the crowds of the town square. If you can afford the caloric intake, a visit to Merveilluex is charming and rewarding.

A great little place and perfect for a lunch. Glad we stopped by!

Address: Muntpoort 8 | 8000 Brugge, Bruges, Belgium
Phone: +32 50 61 02 09

Betty's, Amsterdam, Holland

Let me start by ruining the ending for you - Betty's is vegetarian heaven and one of the most wonderful eating experiences I've had. Simply amazing.

In Sydney there used to be a place called Betty's Soup Kitchen on Oxford st. It was somewhat of an institution, but a bit of a dive. So when we pulled up to Betty's in Amsterdam, I was carrying some connotations of a venue offering late night nosh to clubbers wearing glow stick necklaces and mesh shirts. When we stepped in the door however, we were met with a small dining room, creamy understated furnishings, a large wall of spices, oils and candles, and a calm atmosphere. 

We were seated at a large country style family dining table in the front window, and soon the rest of the restaurant was filled and new comers were being turned away. Betty's is unassuming from the outside, but clearly has a reputation!

Owner and host Gido Schweitzer served the entire restaurant single handed - he tells a passionate story (in a selection of languages) about the Michelin starred chef who couldn't find spices fresh enough for his cooking, so decided to make his own - these flavours form a key part of the Betty's experience, and Gido explains them with fervor before administering a sprinkle there and then to your meal at the table.

Don't expect to see a menu - Gido explains the courses to you (the offerings change weekly, so don't expect to eat the same thing twice!) and also makes suggestions on accompanying wine. Dishes are served mostly to share around the table, creating a very fond atmosphere amongst the diners at each table.

Betty's dishes include so many flavours and unique pairings of vegetables that I'm sure I'll fail to recreate the dishes with the detail they deserve - but I'll try to paint a picture of the general magic!

We started with a soup of capsicum with a knob of dairy at the bottom and a sprinkling of spices on top. It was a small portion that packed an incredible amount of taste, and was matched with a beautiful country style walnut bread. We then started on a medley of three salads, including (in no order of combination) asparagus, celeraic, broccoli with a beautiful sesame oil, and a flower on top. . . I was so engrossed in the experience of each mouthful that I didn't commit each ingredient to memory - I wish I had!

Our main was baked polenta with a rich and intense tomato sauce. It was paired with a beautiful salad of beetroot, capcicum, apples and seeds, and a separate dish of fresh green seasonal peas. We also had a side of patatas gratis with another intense tomato sauce - the peas and salad cut through the richness of the sauce beautifully.

For desert, we chose 3 cakes - an apple, sticky date, and a rhubarb - each was incredible and it was hard to choose the best - I selected the rhubarb for it's sweet but not sickly characteristics, while my friend chose the sticky date pudding. Upon finishing Gido told us the secret to the pudding is roasted turnip which gives it it's beautiful sweetness. The passion for vegetables really comes to the forefront with this ingenuity for desert!

We finished two bottles of beautiful wine across our delectable 3 courses and left feeling light and so satisfied. Gido is an unassuming host, and yet he is able to create a unique experience for each table, and well deserves his glowing reviews. It's clear that this is a man with a passion for vegetables, and he tells us he has been a vegetarian for over 30 years. I'm glad to have benefited from his decades of experimentation and enthusiasm for flavour ~ truly a special experience.

Address: Rijnstraat 75  huis, 1079 GX Amsterdam
Phone: 020 644 58 96 
Web: http://www.bettys.nl/ 

Envy, Amsterdam, Holland

I was lucky enough to find myself in the Netherlands and Belgium recently - a birthday trip for the big three-ohhh-nooo. While we were in Amsterdam, a few friends living in London came over to enjoy my birthday with me - such a treat to have such good mates! They rented a boat and we drove around the canals, enjoying a bottle of Moet and some beautiful cheese and bread under mostly blue skies. My fantastic birthday boat ride just got even better when we moored for lunch! 

Envy is part of a group of restaurants, and the owners certainly have the mix right, although each venue seems to be completely unique. Envy is sleek and dim, sitting below street level. With the open kitchen enjoying the light of the front window, and the seating area stretching like a gun barrel back into the depth of the building, this small space is able to create the ambiance of a wine bar and a juice bar, depending on where you're standing (99% wine and 1% juice!).

When you open the menu it appears to be a selection of 2 breads, a chefs lunch, and then three pages of cheeses - impressive and baffling all at once! I saw my friends flip through once, twice and then three times thinking they'd missed something. . . so we all went with the chefs lunch (!) and the waitress didn't blink when we asked for 2 veggies.

Our first stage arrived as a medley of pumpkin - a small pumpkin soup, pumpkin chutney, and pumpkin done three or four other ways. Each bite sized morsel was different to the last.

We then had several plates following - each served degustation style. We enjoyed a cucumber gazpacho that was very tasty and refreshing, as well as some 'luxury bread' with truffle butter. One interesting flavour came in the form of a small meringue the size of a 10 cent piece - was it lime? Intense! I don't know how they packed that much flavour into such a small daub.

Desert was a really creative - white chocolate 'soup' with fresh pineapple on a skewer - and there was the lime meringue again! The soup was creamy but light, and the pineapple created an edge to cut through the milks. Full of taste but not overwhelming.

We had a variety of people serve us, including one chef, all of whom were friendly enough. With good company and a nice bottle of wine, plus a few stiff coffees, it turned out to be a lunch to remember! Thirty is not so bad after all.

 

Usually I take my own food photos (sneakily I hope! I don't like wrecking the mood with constant flashing, and there's something strange about photographing everything you eat!) but then I steal my final photos of the restaurants decor so I can get a beautiful shot, sans empty glasses and chewing patrons. But in this case, my friend Amy somehow shot these incredible photos - I think they're worthy of promotional material on Envy's behalf! They capture the smooth, dark eatery perfectly. Thanks Amy - for the photos and more!

Address: Prinsengracht 381, 1016 HL Amsterdam
Phone: +31 20 344 64 07
Website: http://www.envy.nl/en/