Amber, Hong Kong, Hong Kong

Wow, it's taken me a really long time to write this entry.

Truth be told, I got a bit sick of eating. That's not to detract from the amazing evening we had at Amber - actually it's the most opulent (read: expensive) meal I've ever had, and completely deserves it's spot amongst the best 100 restaurants in the world, and it's two sparklers. . . but after the 30th birthday of a lifetime (or the one and only of my lifetime if you want to be witty) I just couldn't do it anymore. . . for a while. . .  'food' being 'it'.

Now I'm getting back in the saddle, and the recollection of Amber is something very special.

I booked Amber because I was so surprised and pleased to find a vegetarian menu published online, alongside their regular menu. No questions necessary. I called to book, being careful to confirm the exact wording of the chocolate birthday greetings I wanted to reserve (Dear Myself!) and then looked forward to it for a week or so (in the meanwhile, eating A LOT of other birthday food and buying a new birthday top for the occasion).  

Arriving at Amber is like walking into a secret space. It's dimly lit, aptly decorated in Amber tones and rich woods, and was delicately adorned with yellow orchards while we were there. The space is welcoming yet private and the waitstaff glide around effortlessly like dancers on ice.

We ordered champagne to start, and were immediately romanced by the Somalier, who my Husband told me has quite a reputation preceding him. He was discreet yet obviously excited about his trade, and his love for his stock was contagious - almost a shame to take those bottles from his collection! Before the night was over we took his recommendation more than once - my first ever Austrian Pinot was one happy result!. 

We started our eating adventure with a procession of palate cleansers and lolly-pops that were fun and tasty, and in between each morsel we were offered as much homemade bread as we liked. I have a feeling the bread basket would have been bottomless, but I put an end to it in anticipation of other flavours to come.

We each started with a variety of heirloom tomatoes and a fresh beetroot salad before moving on - I had the risotto and my Husband had the white asparagus. I didn't get the chance to try the asparagus - due to the fact that I wasn't offered any by said Husband who seemed to be enjoying them to himself, however my risotto was exceptional. It was buttery and round without being too rich or heavy, and it had fresh parsley, onions and wild mushrooms spread throughout. I've not had risotto so light like this before - it was truly something different. Likewise I didn't share any of my prized risotto, instead enjoying it all to myself, which is a statement in my family.

Following dinner we saw some more complementary mouthfuls sent our way from the kitchen to cleanse our tasting senses, and then we moved on. . . cheese and desert!

Cheese was a real event. The waiter wheeled a black lacquered cabinet over to our table, and then before we knew what was happening - whack, whack, whack! - he unfolded the top of the cabinet in such a way that let us know he meant business. He then went on to explain each of the cheeses available... when I asked 'How many can I choose?' he said 'As many as you like. And don't worry... I'll be generous'. His remark was so charming, genuine and cheeky - such a lovely gesture, despite the fact that I hardly needed generous portions of food by that point! He was pleased to see we didn't go past the Stilton. The black cheese cabinet was packed up and moved back into the shadows with such stealth that I'm left imagining how it actually was removed - I was too busy ogling my cheese family to notice.

For desert we had some lovely things. Honestly I don't remember this part. I do remember I was feeling euphoric, and we were drinking sticky wine by that point. Oh, and also I was wishing myself a heart-felt happy birthday again, knowing that it was getting to the end of the day and soon it wouldn't be my Birthday anymore. Amber is of course the kind of place where the waiters won't pull out their private instruments from the back staff room and sing you an impromptu happy birthday song, and the other patrons won't clap the beat and then call out 'Hooray!' when your Mum says 'Hip Hip!'. No - they're busy speaking French, talking Finance, or celebrating wedding anniversaries. But despite the lack of singing, with Husband and Mum and Dad around me providing plenty of grown-up Birthdays Cheers, I was feeling happy, if not admittedly a bit Birthday weary. Being 30 now I seem to fade quickly. Perhaps it was the fact that we were on to our 4th bottle - I should stop thinking like an old person. 

We left feeling wonderful. Mum was kissing unborn babies and I was ready to happily fall into bed. The service had been exceptional - to the point where beyond the cheese and the fantastic wine man, there is nothing to mention because it was all so smooth and below the radar, but with quirks of appropriate personality shining through. The plates are their own with an interesting off-center pattern, and the booth we were offered felt so private while still being connected to the other experiences of the restaurant around us. It was a magic place to celebrate getting old (older).

Sometimes I don't really know what a review will say until it's been said on the page. I wish I had more to say about the food - what more can I say but that it is vegetarian and so wonderful. The vegetarian menu changes monthly, so no doubt you can have your own experience and not need to compare notes with mine. Am I too easily pleased? Is it a bad thing that I enjoy every special place I eat my vegetables in? Well I don't think so - I hope not! What a pleasure to have these treats in life. Of course there are more important things, and perhaps it's reckless to spend this money on food, but I enjoy the frivolity and spectacle of the eating experience - we all need to eat and I happen to choose to eat vegetables exclusively. I'm so glad places like Amber have the doors open to me! You might say: "Why shouldn't they!" and yes, well I agree, but also I'm just blessed to enjoy these special meals with special people, so we'll leave the philosophical debate about vegetarian dining equality for another day.

Address: 15 Queen's Road, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, The Landmark, Central, Hong Kong  
Phone: +852 2132 0066
Web:  http://www.amberhongkong.com/

Merveilluex, Bruges, Belgium

In Bruges we ate at least one of all the usual novelties - frites with mayonnaise, chocolate, waffles, beer. . . The chocolates were consistently incredible, but I soon tired of the rest!

We spent a lot of time trekking all around Bruges following online reviews. . . we happily viewed most of the city along the way, and got to know the coiled and cobbled streets quite well, but sadly most of our conquests turned out to be closed - some seem to be open for lunch but not for dinner, and others closed every second tuesday and wednesday and each Sunday after March. . . Our hotelier later explained that the local restaurants are run privately and that the owners 'need time to rest'! Well, at one stage I found myself in an Irish pub out of desperation ~ we had one drink and then managed to re-muster our hunting instincts in the pursuit of a good meal. Luckily we became the recipients of a a local recommendation and followed it dutifully.

Needless to say, I was glad to have lunch in this little french bistro that became our stand-out, as local suggestions are always best!

When you step in the front door of this lane-way cafe, you will basically find yourself standing in the kitchen. After maneuvering around and taking a seat by the large window overlooking potted plants on the opposite windowsill, you'll immediately feel settled and cosy, and it will dawn on you that you're in for a treat!

Pastries are on display behind the counter, waiting for you for later, and the walls are lined with teas and wines. The decor is simple and chic, with a touch of country style (even the large supply of dish-washing detergent is lined up perfectly, row by row like soldiers in the backroom, mimicking the bottles of wine - their front of house brothers).


Merveilluex is run by a couple and you can feel their personal touch both in the service and the magic of the kitchenette. They're a smooth team and everyone felt the friendly efficiency they offer.

We started with a goats cheese and apple salad which arrived as a wheel of cheese baked in butter, and covered in caramelised apples, with a green salad on the side. The cheese was salty and smooth, and the combination with the apples created an unexpectedly luxurious experience. I knew I'd be running off the butter and cheese for weeks to come, but in the moment I couldn't ask for a nicer slice of heaven. The green salad with vinaigrette refreshed my palate before we moved on to a very nice pasta. Although very tasty, the pasta sits in the background of my memory in comparison to the cheese treat!

For sweets (we couldn't resist) we had more apples in the form of a tart - very nice.

We certainly had a lovely lunch away from the crowds of the town square. If you can afford the caloric intake, a visit to Merveilluex is charming and rewarding.

A great little place and perfect for a lunch. Glad we stopped by!

Address: Muntpoort 8 | 8000 Brugge, Bruges, Belgium
Phone: +32 50 61 02 09

Betty's, Amsterdam, Holland

Let me start by ruining the ending for you - Betty's is vegetarian heaven and one of the most wonderful eating experiences I've had. Simply amazing.

In Sydney there used to be a place called Betty's Soup Kitchen on Oxford st. It was somewhat of an institution, but a bit of a dive. So when we pulled up to Betty's in Amsterdam, I was carrying some connotations of a venue offering late night nosh to clubbers wearing glow stick necklaces and mesh shirts. When we stepped in the door however, we were met with a small dining room, creamy understated furnishings, a large wall of spices, oils and candles, and a calm atmosphere. 

We were seated at a large country style family dining table in the front window, and soon the rest of the restaurant was filled and new comers were being turned away. Betty's is unassuming from the outside, but clearly has a reputation!

Owner and host Gido Schweitzer served the entire restaurant single handed - he tells a passionate story (in a selection of languages) about the Michelin starred chef who couldn't find spices fresh enough for his cooking, so decided to make his own - these flavours form a key part of the Betty's experience, and Gido explains them with fervor before administering a sprinkle there and then to your meal at the table.

Don't expect to see a menu - Gido explains the courses to you (the offerings change weekly, so don't expect to eat the same thing twice!) and also makes suggestions on accompanying wine. Dishes are served mostly to share around the table, creating a very fond atmosphere amongst the diners at each table.

Betty's dishes include so many flavours and unique pairings of vegetables that I'm sure I'll fail to recreate the dishes with the detail they deserve - but I'll try to paint a picture of the general magic!

We started with a soup of capsicum with a knob of dairy at the bottom and a sprinkling of spices on top. It was a small portion that packed an incredible amount of taste, and was matched with a beautiful country style walnut bread. We then started on a medley of three salads, including (in no order of combination) asparagus, celeraic, broccoli with a beautiful sesame oil, and a flower on top. . . I was so engrossed in the experience of each mouthful that I didn't commit each ingredient to memory - I wish I had!

Our main was baked polenta with a rich and intense tomato sauce. It was paired with a beautiful salad of beetroot, capcicum, apples and seeds, and a separate dish of fresh green seasonal peas. We also had a side of patatas gratis with another intense tomato sauce - the peas and salad cut through the richness of the sauce beautifully.

For desert, we chose 3 cakes - an apple, sticky date, and a rhubarb - each was incredible and it was hard to choose the best - I selected the rhubarb for it's sweet but not sickly characteristics, while my friend chose the sticky date pudding. Upon finishing Gido told us the secret to the pudding is roasted turnip which gives it it's beautiful sweetness. The passion for vegetables really comes to the forefront with this ingenuity for desert!

We finished two bottles of beautiful wine across our delectable 3 courses and left feeling light and so satisfied. Gido is an unassuming host, and yet he is able to create a unique experience for each table, and well deserves his glowing reviews. It's clear that this is a man with a passion for vegetables, and he tells us he has been a vegetarian for over 30 years. I'm glad to have benefited from his decades of experimentation and enthusiasm for flavour ~ truly a special experience.

Address: Rijnstraat 75  huis, 1079 GX Amsterdam
Phone: 020 644 58 96 
Web: http://www.bettys.nl/ 

Envy, Amsterdam, Holland

I was lucky enough to find myself in the Netherlands and Belgium recently - a birthday trip for the big three-ohhh-nooo. While we were in Amsterdam, a few friends living in London came over to enjoy my birthday with me - such a treat to have such good mates! They rented a boat and we drove around the canals, enjoying a bottle of Moet and some beautiful cheese and bread under mostly blue skies. My fantastic birthday boat ride just got even better when we moored for lunch! 

Envy is part of a group of restaurants, and the owners certainly have the mix right, although each venue seems to be completely unique. Envy is sleek and dim, sitting below street level. With the open kitchen enjoying the light of the front window, and the seating area stretching like a gun barrel back into the depth of the building, this small space is able to create the ambiance of a wine bar and a juice bar, depending on where you're standing (99% wine and 1% juice!).

When you open the menu it appears to be a selection of 2 breads, a chefs lunch, and then three pages of cheeses - impressive and baffling all at once! I saw my friends flip through once, twice and then three times thinking they'd missed something. . . so we all went with the chefs lunch (!) and the waitress didn't blink when we asked for 2 veggies.

Our first stage arrived as a medley of pumpkin - a small pumpkin soup, pumpkin chutney, and pumpkin done three or four other ways. Each bite sized morsel was different to the last.

We then had several plates following - each served degustation style. We enjoyed a cucumber gazpacho that was very tasty and refreshing, as well as some 'luxury bread' with truffle butter. One interesting flavour came in the form of a small meringue the size of a 10 cent piece - was it lime? Intense! I don't know how they packed that much flavour into such a small daub.

Desert was a really creative - white chocolate 'soup' with fresh pineapple on a skewer - and there was the lime meringue again! The soup was creamy but light, and the pineapple created an edge to cut through the milks. Full of taste but not overwhelming.

We had a variety of people serve us, including one chef, all of whom were friendly enough. With good company and a nice bottle of wine, plus a few stiff coffees, it turned out to be a lunch to remember! Thirty is not so bad after all.

 

Usually I take my own food photos (sneakily I hope! I don't like wrecking the mood with constant flashing, and there's something strange about photographing everything you eat!) but then I steal my final photos of the restaurants decor so I can get a beautiful shot, sans empty glasses and chewing patrons. But in this case, my friend Amy somehow shot these incredible photos - I think they're worthy of promotional material on Envy's behalf! They capture the smooth, dark eatery perfectly. Thanks Amy - for the photos and more!

Address: Prinsengracht 381, 1016 HL Amsterdam
Phone: +31 20 344 64 07
Website: http://www.envy.nl/en/

My Place, Hong Kong

Yesterday I was the recipient of a fedex package. It turned out to be 12 sparkling new Royal Doulton champagne glasses from my Mum. An early birthday present! Yes: twelve! I'm a lucky girl. I can't even imagine having a dinner party at my house for 12 people involving champagne - now I need to build up my other dining room equipment around these glasses - looking forward to it!

So my husband and I were faced with a problem - how to christen the crystal?

Our favourite pastime involves sharing pizza and champagne at home. I don't know when we started this ritual, but when we had our civil marriage in China (another story), Moet and a Magherita was our celebration feast of choice. So with nothing to celebrate yesterday (except for the new glasses!) we decided to make an excuse for a review.

Welcome to my place. On the menu is Veuve Clicquot and delivery Mediterranean and Vegetarian from Wildfire Pizza.

We put the bottle on ice and ordered the pizza. 45 minutes later we popped the cork when the delivery arrived. Cheers. The crystal had a nice ring to it. We opened the pizza and found. . . something we didn't order . . . with 1 piece missing. Who would believe we got a pizza with one piece missing?! So we debated what to do - would they believe us? It was kind of absurd and hard to prove. I took a photo, but who's to say I didn't take the piece out myself? The mind starts to imagine how the piece went missing - did the delivery guy sneak it on the way over? Did it get hooked in the oven on the way out? Never mind the mystery of the missing piece - someone probably found it later and thought it was weird to find a lone slice wherever it was - we called Wildfire back, and the manager was very apologetic. She was sending out a replacement of the right flavour and full pie straight away.

So we happily drank our champagne and ate one pizza. It gave me a chance to get to know my new glasses. They're heavy in the hand and make me feel so special. Strangely my champers didn't boast an effervescent bubble - is this because of the glass design or the bottle we had? I think it's fair to say that another bottle is in order to qualify our R&D for Royal Doulton. . . I'm sure they have a customer comments line or something. After a whole bottle of The Widow I just about could have called it for a serious conversation.

So the substitute pizza arrived - all eight pieces in tact - but again the wrong order. Who cared by that point. We were mostly done our champers, and just glad that somehow the mistake pizza happened to be vegetarian by a fortunate chance. You can't really go wrong with lots of cheese and garlic.

In the end? I still love my new glasses. I still love drinking champagne and eating take out pizza with my husband. Every time we have this dinner date it brings some quirky little story to tell.

I think it's the bubbles.

North Bondi Italian Food, Sydney, Australia

On my last night back in Sydney, my good friends Lorin and Stu took me to Bondi - my childhood stomping ground!

We walked along the promenade of the beach as the sun set, watching energetics doing boot camp with one of the best backdrops you could ask for while you sweat your heart out. We happily chatted about how Bondi is underrated as the best city-beach in the world. The air was cool and the smell of salt was in the air while we hunted for the North Bondi Italian, happy that we were heading for dinner rather than a fartlek workout. Turns out that the restaurant is blatantly easy to find - just head north along the beach - when the path turns east: stop. Don't listen to your iPhone - it's distracted by the beautiful ocean and powder-white sand. Simple.

It wasn't until we arrived at the restaurant that I decided to review it. Based on the name alone, this place could have been anywhere. It wasn't until we arrived that I realised we were in for a treat. Stu asked me how I classify 'fine dining' so I made up the qualification of "mains above $30?" on the spot. On face value, the North Bondi Italian is deliberately casual due to it's iconic beach-side location, but it's special none-the-less.

It was a tuesday night and we didn't have a reservation. The skies were looking like they might weep, and the head waiter explained that he needed to keep a few tables free in case he needed to pull in some of his outdoor diners. He quickly got us a perch in the bar area, and by the time we had our drinks and cracked open a few peanuts, our table was ready. Candid and seamless service.

I have since heard that on other days it's much harder to get a table.

The atmosphere is open, with a combination of beach and Italian style. They do it well - Campari bottles line the bar, lots of dark woods, huge netted lamp shades that give a fishermans vibe while making you feel like you're sitting under a full moon, while the waitstaff are dressed in mod beach style with white cotton t-shirts, dunlop volley style shoes, tight denim shorts and oversized denim aprons. Somehow they all got hit with the good looking stick too. Whomever is hiring here knows their remit.

Upon sitting down I got admittedly a little worried. Any place with a whole section for offal on the menu is typically not vegetarian friendly. It's a large, placemat style menu with plenty of mouthwatering options, but I admit I did need to hunt for the vegetarian option. Most Italian places are easy for veggies, but the chef here obviously has a soft spot for trotters from his childhood. I found a pasta and a salad and I was happy!

We started with an amazing home made ricotta, served with lemon and mint. The ricotta was soft and subtle, and the addition of the mint was incredibly satisfying. We also had a large bowl of odd olives - some green and meaty and others black and pea like - all tasty!

My pasta arrived al dente - very nice, with an egg on top. The flavour was lovely, but not enough for me to remember beyond being al dete with an egg. . . It was nice and very satisfying, but a week later it's non-descript. The bean salad on the side had more unique flavours to speak of. Borlotti beans, celery, carrot, onion, and balsamic - fresh and so unique in it's simplicity.

Desert was the crowning glory. Unfortunately we were being eaten alive by mosquitoes by this stage! We were still happy due to wonderful service (was she Dutch?) and beautiful food, so we jovially swatted away, but 1 week later I'm still recovering! North Bondi Italian is lovely, but they'll need to do something about those mosies.

For desert we had an apple pie and a chocolate pudding - the chocolate was worth a special mention due to the creamy texture, and crunchy bubbles on top. Stu forced me to finish it off and I happily obliged. It was compact, uncomplicated and balanced - not so rich that I left feeling heavy.

The service was attentive, unique, hipster-cool but personal. Our waitress was listening to us with a genuine attentiveness that made me relax completely into her service. Each server continued the vibe seamlessly, as if to say "were a cool bunch but not exclusive - come have fun with us, enjoy some good food". It's cool how good service can make you feel a part of something. Even the waiter creating boobs down his shirt behind the bar felt strangely in place - just eat and have a laugh and love life. Note how often I'm mentioning 'cool' - how else to describe this place by the beach?

I left satisfied. Despite a meager 1 veggie option, I loved the experience of North Bondi Italian Food. They're doing something with design and concept that I haven't seen before - we've all seen Italian, and all seen Australian Beach - but together the idea is completely unique and I feel like they pull it off.

Address: 118 Ramsgate Ave, off Campbell Prd, North Bondi
Phone: (02) 9300 4400
Website: http://www.idrb.com/northbondi/

Cafe Sydney, Sydney, Australia

I've always heard about Cafe Sydney. When I first started my career and was finally earning a little money (after the last call on a seemingly endless university degree), I would dream about all the restaurants I wanted to spend my meager surplus in. People in the circles above me at work would talk about Cafe Sydney in the same sentence as the new fine dining establishments and fond old favourites of Rockpool, Darcy's, Aria, Claude's, Tetsuya's and the former FortyOne. I couldn't wait to experience this motley crew of eating houses myself. So on a recent trip back to Sydney, I took my sisters birthday as a perfect excuse to make a booking.

When we alighted the lift in Cafe Sydney, the first thing I noticed was the bold city names that lace the cornice of the high ceilings. New York, Cairo, London, Paris, San Francisco, Dalian, Xiamen, Kingston, Halfax. . . hang on a second. . . how did the latter 2nd tier Chinese and Canadian cities get up there? There must be a story here I'm not privy to.

Our table wasn't ready when we arrived, so we took a seat in the bar area and ordered some cocktails. The low seat, combined with my high heels, meant I ended up with my knees around my ears (I exaggerate, but not comfortable! Glad I wasn't in a short skirt - no chance. . .) as I ordered my drink from a non-plussed waiter. At this stage I was still open to being wowed. It was a Sunday lunch and I could hear the live music playing as I surveyed the place and chatted with my sister. Cafe Sydney is a combination of natural light, earth colours, accented with stainless steel and an orange carpet. It has an atrium style, and being full of glass and mirror, it had a boisterous atmosphere. It's a relaxed cafe environment, but unfortunately it's showing the signs of love in a few spots - the stained orange carpet has seen better days. Once I adjusted my expectations, I settled in for a nice afternoon, bistro style.

Our table became free and we carried our drinks around to our seat - our heavily pregnant, lycra clad Matre'D would have had no chance - she was spending all her grace navigating between the tightly packed tables and kids doing star jumps. Power to her - poor thing!

Our table had a fantastic view of the bridge - obviously this is what you're paying for when you come to Cafe Sydney. The balcony awning frames the coat hanger perfectly, and set the scene for a lovely birthday celebration.

It's a shame to say that the wait-staff were not adding any personal touch to their service (apart from the waiter who kept wiping my water glass and table in between my sips - thanks, you get points for being observant, but weird. . . just get me a coaster or put table cloths on during the warm days?) and not to mention that they were a pretty tardy bunch with no common service vibe. I quite enjoy being served by a waitperson with a huge, jolly 'I eat too much of my own pasta' belly, but it goes without saying that a sense of attention to detail in the dress is important. Lets just say that the male staff at Cafe Sydney are leaving the sour-faced girls in their dust. Enough complaining - the food was very nice.

Cafe Sydney has a seafood inspired menu, and my sister loved the fresh oysters and prawns. I was pleased to find vegetarian options on the regular menu, without calling ahead. I started with the famous goats cheese and beetroot tart, served with caramelised onion, walnuts, watercress, and cabernet vinegar. It was creamy and compact with a delicious marmalade accent. I then moved on to the gnocci as a main, which was golden-brown delicious, if not a bit heavy.  It was served with an interesting combination of thyme, peas, celeriac, and asparagus, with the peas giving the dish a delightful fresh sensation. The gnocci also came with a poached egg served on the side.

It was a huge undertaking for lunch, and left us without room for desert, so we finished off the meal with tea, which was served with honey on the spoon, and lemon. A lovely way to relax after a feast!

Overall, I would not call lunch at Cafe Sydney as my all-time favourite - I think it would be a nice place to take guests from out of town as a one-off for the novelty, but there are other places on the harbour offering a similar view. Having said that, if I'm going to spend $100+ per head on lunch, I expect more than just the view (fantastic as it is!). If Cafe Sydney could tighten up the sensibilities of it's wait staff and service plan (I hardly saw the same face twice, apart from the glass wiper), and perhaps re-think some of the design (a few less tables?), then they'd have a respectable high-end bistro, commiserate with the food they're serving.

Address: Level 5, Customs House, 31 Alfred Street, Circular Quay NSW 2000

Phone: +61 2 9251 8683

Website: www.cafesydney.com